New skirt for the cross-over empire bodice

I really like the cross-over empire bodice but I am not very happy with the skirt. I am making another muslin using my princess line block for the skirt top. This skirt has only a little flare with box pleats on the side front and side back seams. A quick basting of the skirt to the bodice with the pleats not sewn into the seam showed the pleats worked nicely but needed to be sewed closed a bit lower.

I had gathered the under bust gathers into an area 1/2 inches wider and didn't like that. I have now re-gathered them back into the same length as the first dress. The pleats are sewn down longer in the bodice with the depth of the front pleats increased to match the tighter gathering of the bodice.

I am putting pockets in the side seams of the skirt. In the August Sewalong thread on Stitcher's Guild, Melinda posted a link to Sigrid's side seam pocket tutorial that helped me see how I can put a pocket in the skirt.

I like the top of the pocket to be sewn to skirts and dress at the waist seam. Pockets just hang better, especially when I put the insulin pump, keys or cell phone in the pocket. I have been doing an angled pockets and an angled pocket won't work with an empire waist.

I stopped doing in-seam pockets because I had consistent problems with skirts tearing at the bottom of the pocket opening. Sigrid's way of doing in-seam pockets is a bit different and I hope this will solve the tear problem. I have a similar pocket in a RTW rayon challis skirt that hasn't torn in 3 years.

One of the 2 pocket pieces goes up into the waist seam, the other stops a couple of inches above the pocket opening. I didn't sew the top of the shorter pocket piece to the longer pocket piece so my insulin pump should slip easily into either pocket.

Hopefully I can finish the 2nd pocket and baste the skirt back into the bodice tonight.